Ceramic material is undoubtedly a milestone in the history of modern watches. For a long time, stainless steel, precious metals, and even precious stones have been used in the watchmaking industry. The history of ceramic materials being used in the watchmaking industry is not long, but with its excellent wear resistance, sturdiness and other characteristics, today, ceramic materials have been widely used in the field of advanced watchmaking, whether it is the use of full Ceramics are used to make watchcases or as decorative components. Ceramics are no longer a “rare visitor” in the watch industry, but are on the stage as the protagonist. Today, let’s talk about how high-end watchmaking brands play with ceramic materials.
Among the greatest watch designs of the last century, the Royal Oak from Audemars Piguet must be on the list. In September of this year, the brand launched a number of new ceramic complications, which once again refreshed our impression of Audemars Piguet ceramic watches.
Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Watch
As far as the ceramic material itself is concerned, the brand has previously launched charcoal black ceramic Royal Oak, white perpetual calendar Royal Oak and other models, but the new color matching of electric blue (including the bracelet) is indeed the first time. Of course, if it is just a new color + ceramic material, maybe this watch is not so convincing. As one of the troikas, Audemars Piguet will never disappoint loyal fans of the Royal Oak – complications are its strengths.
The Royal Oak series perpetual calendar watch made of blue ceramic material is made of ceramic material, and the color matching is very special. This kind of blue is different from the sky blue and sea blue that we commonly see. It is more like an electric light flashing in the deep night sky, which makes people unable to bear to look at it more. In addition, the watch still retains the classic dial layout of the Royal Oak complex watch. The four sub-dials are arranged symmetrically on the dial, and there is also a moon phase display disc at 6 o’clock, which is located at 12, 3 and 9 o’clock in order. It is the month display, date display and day display dial.
Friends who have worn or played with ceramic watches may know that due to the high density, ceramic watches on the market are generally thicker and may be more stressful to wear than other materials. The size of this new blue Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar watch is still the classic 41 mm, which is not a particularly small size. In fact, the hand feels lighter.
The reason is that Audemars Piguet uses multiple processes for ceramic materials, high-precision processing, etc., and the ceramic components are finally fired at a high temperature of 1400 °. This watch, which is presented in blue ceramic for the first time, has a case thickness of only 9.5 mm. You must know that the complex function movement it carries is, compared with the ordinary three-hand movement, due to the components It is complicated and the thickness is not very thin, but it is precisely because of the material characteristics of ceramics and the superb craftsmanship used by Audemars Piguet that this watch presents such a light effect.
In addition, the classic octagonal case is equipped with a dial of the same color, the three-dimensional hour markers on the dial and the hands treated with fluorescent coating, etc., all add more layers to this watch, and also show love He has deeply rooted the brand DNA in the bone marrow. It is like an eagle that still stands in the dark night, so that the wearer can also obtain clear time information in a dim environment.
In addition to the classic Royal Oak series design, this watch also has a place worth talking about, which is the perpetual calendar movement it is equipped with. Turn it over and see the Calibre 5134 self-winding movement on this watch through the transparent back design. In fact, friends who are familiar with Audemars Piguet should know that this movement has been used as early as 2015. Launched by the brand, the hollowed-out gold oscillating weight is one of its iconic design elements. Of course, the brand has also redesigned the watch, reducing the thickness of the movement to an incredible 4.3 mm, which is also the reason why this watch can Great reason to drop the case below 10mm.
In addition, this Calibre 5134 movement can automatically adjust the number of days per month, which means that unlike perpetual calendar watches, which usually need to adjust the date in leap years, this watch can accurately display the date even in leap years. The official statement is that the time information will not need to be adjusted until 2100, that is, after 78 years.
CODE 11.59 Tourbillon Watch
It seems that Audemars Piguet is particularly fond of electro-optical blue this year, and we saw the same electro-optical blue ceramic material in the new CODE 11.59 series that followed. Even if it is the same color and the same material, it has a very different presentation in different series expressions.
The history of the CODE 11.59 series is not long, and there were many different voices when it was first launched, but now, we can see that many people will choose this series, which makes Audemars Piguet more choices.
This new CODE 11.59 series skeleton tourbillon watch is made of blue ceramic in the middle of the case, matched with the 18K white gold bezel and case back, and is limited to 50 pieces. What makes it more eye-catching is not just the color scheme, but the skeletonized dial. The hollow design of the dial benefits from the continuous pursuit and research and development of technology by the watchmakers of the Audemars Piguet brand. Many years ago, I remember participating in an experience class of the brand, where I had a rough understanding of the barb grinding and engraving skills of watches. Now that I see such works of art again, I can’t help but feel the brand’s attitude towards watches. Love from the heart.
Like precious metals and stainless steel, ceramic materials still need to be polished by hand. The Audemars Piguet case has an iconic design. Do you have the impression that it is hand-finished with satin brushing and polishing and chamfering. This detail is in the ceramic material. ‘s watch is now successfully displayed. At the same time, the new timepiece is equipped with a multi-layered Calibre 2948 hand-wound skeleton tourbillon movement. The watchmaker uses blue treatment on the main splint and other components of the watch, so that the watch can still maintain the consistency of the main tone no matter what angle it is viewed from.
In addition, the hyperboloid sapphire crystal used in the watch is one of the more prominent designs of the CODE 11.59 series. This new model also follows this design and skillfully integrates it with the geometric curvature of the ultra-thin bezel, showing A chic layered aesthetic.
Royal Oak Concept Floating Tourbillon
GMT two time watch
In fact, the innovation of materials and the ingenuity of color matching all require solid and excellent movement technology to carry it. And Audemars Piguet’s strength lies in this, from the perpetual calendar watch in front, to the dazzling work of the CODE 11.59 skeleton movement, and finally to this floating tourbillon two-time watch, the presentation of complex functions on the watch , like flowers blooming on the top of a cliff, the more difficult it is to achieve, the most attractive.
If the previous two electro-optic blue ceramic watches are the brand’s restrained and elegant interpretation, then this year’s Royal Oak Concept Series Floating Tourbillon GMT watch with a green ceramic bezel and a titanium case , it is blatantly releasing a very modern aesthetic tension.
Audemars Piguet has launched many watches with green dials or color matching. Whether it is camouflage green or a work with a green design on the bezel, it can become a hot-selling watch of the year when it is launched. In this new work of the Royal Oak Concept Series Floating Tourbillon GMT two-time watch, the bezel, crown and other parts of the watch are made of green ceramic material, so it is different from the previous two large-scale ceramic materials. watch, which uses this material locally.
But even though the brand has used green ceramic in other models before, this material is used for the first time in the Royal Oak Concept series watch. So this year, Audemars Piguet put many firsts in ceramic materials. Of course, it’s not just about the color matching and the series. The Calibre 2954 movement on this watch is equipped with a patented barrel independently developed by the brand. Endowed with a strong “heart”. After the watch is wound, it can run for up to 10 days, and the constant power provides the watch with about 237 hours of autonomous running time. You must know that the development of long-term power and the realization of complex functions have high requirements for a movement, but Audemars Piguet can always make the seemingly impossible possible.
In order to further highlight the green ceramic part, the Calibre 2954 manual winding movement on the watch has been continuously polished and adjusted by the watchmaker. It can be seen that the movement uses black bridges and green parts. To be honest Honestly, it’s pretty cool and very engaging. In addition, the conflicting visual effect created by the rose gold components of the watch also brings a more youthful, fashionable and dynamic style to this watch. If the compactness and lightness of the previous two watches cannot meet your needs, then this watch It will surely capture your heart.
It is difficult to say, material and craftsmanship, who has made Audemars Piguet today. It is difficult to achieve today’s Audemars Piguet by taking out any of these elements alone. But it is precisely because of the existence of these innovations and transcendence that more excellent timing works appear in front of us. Ceramics, complex functional design, and the pursuit of beauty are all indispensable to Audemars Piguet.